Subway Case 101

Throughout the week, I take the Metro/Subway on average about eight times, that is coming and going. While on the subway reading makes the time fly so much faster; however, during rush hour traffic, finding a seat is next to impossible at times. When this occures, the best activity one can partake is the artful game of people-watching. On the subway this is a tricky task, as everyone is looking at everyone, but one can't stare too intently at anyone. Slightly paradoxical. One must acquire the skills and agility of looking nowhere--off into the distance--which is in reality is black windows with the occasional light speeding by. I refuse to be this aloof citizen that doesn't take advantage of a people-watching moment like this. People are irritated, hot and sweaty, tired from the day, and ready to get home with as little delay as possible--the perfect scenario for a sociological observance.

In Rio de Janeiro, I have found that generally people like to cluster together, but oddly enough this not the case on the subways or buses. For example, if there are twenty tables available at a restaurant, and you sit in the middle, normally, a carioca will inevitibly sit two or three tables away, maybe even right next to your table to feel more comfortable. Cariocas like to feel apart of the group and feel uncomfortable being a loner. (Don't we all?) But on the subway, cariocas tend to want their space and to be left alone. This is perfectly fine for me. Every once and a while you'll get the confused old lady wondering where the line is going. Making a lot of noise is usually rare, unless someone is trying to answer the phone because reception is bad, so the person on subway  has to invariably shout "I'm on the Metro! The Metro! On the Metro! Can I call you back? The Metro!" Then you have the foreigners that stand in the middle of the car having a conversation as loud as they possibly can about Brazil, "Brazilian girls are so hot. Two girls were flirting with me yesterday night, but then they wanted me to pay them to come up to my room. What's with that?" thinking that no one understands them, when in reality probably 50% of the car can. Any foreigners reading this that are traveling in Brazil and do this, beware most people can understand you. Just a precationary note.

During the unpleasant event of rush hour traffic, along with standing, you might be stomach to stomach a hairy sweaty man. Yesterday, in fact, I was almost nose to nose with ape man. I kid you not! He had salt and pepper hair sprouting from the front and back of his shirt wildly. At these times it is necessary to pray to God that a hot girl or guy enters the car and decides to be the one stomach to stomach with you, at least someone that smells good and isn't sick, coughing in your face. Oh the joys of public transportation!

If you are lucky you can bear witness to a good argument when people jam into the cars and then try to exit at the same time. Here is a nice mental picture, a flood of foot traffic racing to go inside a car, when the pedestrians inside the car are trying to exit at the same time, not to mention little old ladies throwing elbows to get the preferential seat. It's survial of the fittest during rush hour.

On a more positive note, most of the day the subway is the most civilized way to travel publically in Rio, aside from taxis. Everyone gives up their seat to little old ladies and men teetering onto the subway with their grocery carts. The air condicioner is a piece of heaven in 90 degree heat and getting from point A to point B quickly and efficiently is pleasing and encouraging, whether one is scouring the city for tourist sights, going to work or an embassy, or just to meet up with a friend for coffee at the historical Confeitaria Colombo, the subway in Rio de Janeiro is always an experience. Enjoy life!